We left Rome somewhat reluctantly. I can’t explain why it took us 30 years to revisit this charming, fascinating city. We won’t be leaving it so long until our next visit – although having one’s 100th birthday party in Rome would be something to look forward to.

The Italian phase of our holiday had not long to run: just two nights in Siena and one in Riomaggiore (Cinque Terre), but here was still a lot to see.

Wednesday 17 September

Five minutes’ walk took us from the Beehive Hostel to Termini to catch the 09:10 Frecciarossa to Firenze SMN; whence we boarded a comfortable regional train to Siena, travelling through enticing Tuscan countryside and arriving at 12:48. From the station we picked up a bus to the edge of the old town (no cars allowed within), paying by tapping in with a bank card. The S9 took a tortuous route through a couple of housing estates before returning to the station (that was a surprise!), then retracing its steps rather disconcertingly before finally depositing us at Piazza Antonio Gramsci.

Our hotel, the Alma Domus, was just a few minutes away. To our great satisfaction we were given a room with a beautiful panoramic view over the medieval town from our room.

I could see that I was in for two more days of traipsing up and down hills.

But it was worth it

After a hearty lunch of pasta with rabbit ragù at the San Domenico restaurant opposite, we set off, first walking downhill, then uphill towards the Duomo.

Siena’s cathedral is a magnificent museum packed with medieval and Renaissance treasures. I will not attempt to describe its beauty; or the astonishing craftsmanship of the marble floor, chapels and pulpit. That’s what you see when you first enter; but there’s much more: the Piccolomini Library, a crypt with medieval frescos, and a baptistery, which includes sculptures by Ghiberti and Donatello. Every artist of note left their mark on the Duomo.

Adjacent is the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, with Duccio’s Maestà altarpiece.

We had originally intended to go to Florence (which I visited, once, nearly 50 years ago) but were put off by recent reports of the town being rammed with tourists. Siena, on the other hand, was comfortably busy.

***

It had been another memorable day. Tired and dizzy on art, we shared a pizza then returned to our room to watch the sunset … and Liverpool vs Atleti (3-2) on the telly.

Thursday 18 September

Another cloudless morning. We had a light breakfast (mainly because it was included in the price), then began by visiting the imposing Basilica di San Domenico just a few metres above our hotel, where the head of Saint Catherine is displayed in a side chapel.

Gruesome

Then we proceeded, down and up, to the Piazza del Campo where the famous paliò horserace takes place twice a year. At the foot of this gorgeous sloping square is the Palazzo Pubblico, the medieval town hall which has an incredible museum on the first floor. There are frescos depicting “Allegories of Good and Bad Government” by Ambrogio Lorenzetti which illustrate life in 14th-century Siena. There’s also a masterpiece by Simone Martini – and much else besides.

I did not fancy taking the 400 steps to the top of the Torre del Mangia so I can’t say if the view was worth the effort. I imagine it was.

Then we paused for a drink

Next up was the Santa Maria della Scala hospital complex, one of the oldest in the world, with yet more frescoes and altarpieces by Simone Martini, the Lorenzetti brothers and their contemporaries.

That was probably enough art for one day, but the Villa Brandi e Palazzo Chigi was open (free) so we popped in. Anne went back to our room, but I noticed a sign to the medieval fountain known as Fontebranda. It took some finding, but there it was, almost underneath our hotel.

It was hard to get to because the roads were cordoned off. I eventually found out why by questioning a local. The contrada of the Oca (goose) district had won the paliò that July, and of course that needed to be celebrated; hence the racket while they were setting up tables for 2,000 diners. That evening the PA was enthusiastically tested and there was a procession of belle ragazze in gold dresses. Alas, we would miss the party.

***

We celebrated the end of our two days in Siena with an excellent dinner in the grotto of Bagogo. Being epicurious and greedy, I began with a bowl of ribollita (bean, bread, and vegetable stew) before sharing a whopping steak with Anne. It was perfectly cooked and even better with a bottle of red wine. As usual in Italy, the bill was not as high as we had expected, and the service was great too.

Man cannot live by pasta alone

Friday 19 September

Up at 07:15 for the train to Empoli (two hours): another trip through beautiful Tuscan countryside. It was sunny all the way, as it had been since our first day in Italy.

The next train from Empoli to Massa was rammed. I squashed into a single seat with all our luggage – it was Interrailing as I recall it from my youth. Then it was a replacement bus from Massa to La Spezia, and finally a few stops to Riomaggiore on a local train.

It was the busiest place we had been, though that was not a surprise. Riomaggiore is a large village clinging to a cliff, so when it’s full, it’s uncomfortably so. But oh, so picturesque.

American accents were everywhere

Our room was – inevitably – in an old building up a narrow street, and we were allocated a room up two flights of steep stairs. On the plus side all the exercise was making me stronger and fitter by the day! We had planned on walking the coastal path but it was far too busy. As we were only staying for one night we decided that the best way to see the Cinque Terre was to take the ferry that connects four of the five little towns.

It was a pleasant way to pass a couple of hours, apart from having to suffer the sight and sounds of a couple of Pakistani women preening themselves for the camera and showing off to their families back home. The scourge of social media strikes again – but of course I am a hypocrite.

We passed beautiful Vernazza, got off at Monterosso for a walk and a gelato then cruised back. As the sun went down at Riomaggiore we joined the crowd for a swim on the stony beach. The rocks were hot and the water delightfully cool.

In the evening the children came out to play and Riomaggiore reverted to being a provincial Italian village. We went out for dinner, entering an ill-lit labyrinth. You could climb up and down the streets for ages without finding a destination that seemed so easy to find … on Google maps. At last we came across the Trattoria Via dell’Amore, where we enjoyed a quiet, fishy dinner.

So ended our last night in Italy. Every day had been a joy. Next and final stop – the Côte d’Azur.